Mod Shop – Nerf Raider – Paint Job

Somewhat different to the previous posts on this blog, this week we’ll be touching on my first aesthetic mod in a while. Back in my HvZ@ANU days we had very strict power restrictions, so we were forced to differentiate our blasters through aesthetic mods. Every blaster I used then was painted in some form or another. Since then however, the group I’ve been playing with recently has far more relaxed power restrictions, so I’ve been focusing far more on practical things. That won’t stop us though!

This walk through will cover the specifics involved with a Nerf Raider, but the general painting techniques can be applied to any blaster. Just take very special care in the disassembly stage to ensure that you’ll know how to put it back together.

I find it’s often best to stick to 2-3 colours and work with the existing lines of the blaster, but I’m not going to tell you how to choose aesthetic points.

__________________________________________________________________

Tools and materials needed

Screwdriver
Sponge + soapy water
Spray primer
Variety of spray paint colours
Scissors
Masking tape

__________________________________________________________________

As always, we’ll kick off the blaster itself.

Photobucket

Remove the screws in the priming handle, then the handle itself, then the screws in the rest of the shell.

Photobucket

As always, take a moment to familiarise yourself with the internals.

Photobucket

No seriously, there is going to be a decent amount of time between disassembly and reassembly. Know where things need to go and how they should work BEFORE you pull it apart any further.

Photobucket

Photobucket

Ok, satisfied that you know how it works? Lets move on.

Photobucket

Start by removing these two bars that hold the plunger in place.

Photobucket

Then you’ll be able remove the plunger, the tube and the priming bar. They should all just pop out once you’ve removed the four screws and the two securing bars.

Photobucket

We then have a similar process with the jam door. Remove the two bars that hold it in place and the door itself will come out.

Photobucket

Then go through and remove everything you can. Grab some masking tape and secure anything that moves or could come apart. Last thing you want is for the whole blaster not to work because you lost a seemingly insignificant spring.

Photobucket

Now put all the pieces we’ve removed in a zip lock bag.

Photobucket

You should now have a completely stripped shell.

Photobucket

Grab your masking tape and cover up any part you want to retain their stock colouring. Really take your time here because if you miss a bit it will take far longer to fix it up later than it would have to mask properly.

Photobucket

Repeat on the other half of the shell.

Photobucket

Hit it with a first coat of primer.

The tech with spray painting is to do long, consistent strokes. Start spraying on one side of the blaster and continue in a straight line all the way across the blaster until you’re past it. Always run with these strokes and never spray directly on to one specific spot. Many light coats will achieve a far better coverage than one heavy one.

Photobucket

Ensure that you completely cover everything you intend to cover.

Photobucket

Now move on to colour. Again we’re aiming for long, consistent strokes.

Photobucket

It should take a couple of coats to get a decent coverage. Allow sufficient time for each coat to dry and keep going until you’re happy basically.

Photobucket

In this case I was going for a two tone effect so the following day I went back and remasked different parts of the blaster.

Photobucket

Which then let me hit it with the second colour.

Photobucket

Again, a few coats were needed.

Photobucket

Once you’re happy with the coverage and have allowed suitable time to dry we can peel the tap off and get the first look at your masterpiece.

Photobucket

Mmmm, sexy.

Photobucket

Lets now start putting it back together. Again, I’m obviously going to cover off the specifics involved in reassembling a raider so if you’re doing a different blaster these last steps might not be so useful to you.

Photobucket

Grab your zip lock bag of parts and empty them out.

Photobucket

Wow there are a lot of pieces.

Photobucket

Grab the jam door and slot it into place.

Photobucket

Then grab these two parts.

Photobucket

Top one goes here. Two screws hold it in place.

Photobucket

Then the bottom piece.

Photobucket

Next we’ll do the tac rail attachments.

Photobucket

They slot in along the top of the blaster here.

Photobucket

Like so.

Photobucket

Grab this piece.

Photobucket

Place it here.

Photobucket

Like so.

Photobucket

Now for the dart tooth assembly.

Photobucket

It needs to go here.

Photobucket

Start with the front of the breech.

Photobucket

Then the dart tooth itself.

Photobucket

Then the part that holds it in place.

Photobucket

Next we have the barrel.

Photobucket

Funnily enough, it lives at the front of the blaster.

Photobucket

Place the barrel tube first.

Photobucket

Turn it this way up.

Photobucket

Then slot it in to place.

Photobucket

Like so.

Photobucket

Ok, so this next part wasn’t strictly necessary but the blaster was apart, I couldn’t not to a quick AR and seal improvement.

Photobucket

Check my previous post on modifying a Nerf Raider for the specifics but I’ll quickly go over it now anyway. Remove the o-ring and apply some teflon tape.

Photobucket

Put the o-ring back on and grease it up.

Photobucket

Tape up the release hole here.

Photobucket

Like so.

Photobucket

All right, lets get back in to the reassembly.

Photobucket

Place the breech assembly back in the blaster.

Photobucket

Move to the back.

Photobucket

Slide the plunger back over the plunger tube.

Photobucket

Now grab the two bars that hold the plunger in place. They go back in place in this order.

Photobucket

Top one first. Two screws hold it in place.

Photobucket

Then the bottom. Again, two screws.

Photobucket

Then well replace the catch.

Photobucket

It lives here.

Photobucket

Like so.

Photobucket

Then move to this blank spot just below the plunger rails.

Photobucket

And we’ll replace this locking/catch release bar like so.

Photobucket

Then the trigger.

Photobucket

Finally, this little dart holder in the handle.

Photobucket

Done! Mostly…

Photobucket

Put the other half of the shell on, replace the great assortment of screws and we’re basically there. You’ll obviously need to replace the priming handle and the back plunger cover. I forgot to take photos of that but I’m sure you can figure those ones out on your own.

Photobucket

All right, all done. One painted and now improved Raider. Forgot to take final photos before so here’s a quick one on the lounge room floor.

Photobucket

Mod Shop – Nerf Raider – Air Restrictor Removal + Spring Replacement

The humble Nerf Raider; widely dismissed by the hardcore nerfers of the world but my personal blaster of choice for most situations. First up, no, it isn’t a LongShot. It will not hit your magical 30m mark, nor will it leave welts. For your average Joe however, it will tick all the boxes for a simple, easy to use, well stocked, mid range blaster, that’s also quite straight forward to perform a few simple mods on. It’s what I recommend to practically any new player who asks me and it comes with the wonderful 35 round drum mag.

Nerf Raider Box

Today I’ll quickly run you through an air restictor removal (commonly know as an AR mod) and we’ll chuck in an aftermarket spring while we’re at it. I used the Black Tactical V2 spring myself, but there a whole range of aftermarket springs out there. This is a relatively simple mod to do and certainly one easy enough for a first timer to attempt.

The tools/consumables I used for this mod were…

  • A small phillips head screwdriver
  • A hand drill, complete with extra long drill bit
  • A long, round hand file
  • Telfon tape
  • A dremel, with grinding wheel (only needed for this particular spring)
  • Black Tactical V2 spring

First up grab yourself the blaster, a clean working area and a small container to put all the loose screws in. I’m a big fan of spray paint can lids just because I have a lot of them floating around, but really practically anything will work. Grab your screwdriver and remove the two screws holding the end cap on.

Photobucket

There should then be five screws holding the front handle on. Remove the screws and the handle.

Photobucket

Continue to remove the remaining screws and open up the blaster.

Photobucket

Check it out, Raider internals yo! I’ve included a few close ups here so you can refer back to it if you have problems getting it back together. At this point I’d recommend taking a few minutes just looking at the internals to get a better understanding of how it all works. It will help when it comes time to put it back together and it’s just a good habit to get in to.

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

OK, enough photos, lets continue. Remove the four screws holding in the two rail pieces as shown.

Photobucket

And you should now be able to slide the whole plunger and rod assembly out. Looking down the plunger tube you can see the air restrictor. If this is your first time, try blowing down this end of the plunger tube and you’ll quickly understand what the AR does. Funnily enough, it restricts the air allowed through. Obviously we want as much air moving as quickly as possible to give the dart the biggest kick we can, so we’re going to have to remove this.

Photobucket

Grab your trusty drill and go to town on that sucker

Photobucket

Once you’ve drilled out the bulk of it, grab your hand file and clean up the insides as best you can. Any left over dags here will impede the air flow and hurt the power of your blaster. At this stage I also improved the seal but forgot to take a photo of it. To do this you’ll need to remove the O-ring from the end of the plunger rod, wrap a small amount of teflon tape around the O-ring seat, then put the O-ring back over the top. This helps to improve the seal between the plunger and the plunger rod, ensuring that none of the air escapes around the side. This part is very much a trial and error type process, have a play yourself and you’ll soon figure out how much tape to apply.

Photobucket

If you’re only interested in doing the AR part, feel free to skip this section.

This photo is a comparison between the stock spring ont he left, and the aftermarket BTV2 spring on the right. As you can see, the BT spring is noticeably thicker and this gives it it’s added strength.

Photobucket

Also because of it’s thickness, the BTV2 spring requires a little modification to the blaster shell to stop the spring binding.

Photobucket

Grab your dremel and grind away the tabs as shown.

Photobucket

Slot your newly improved plunger rod, bolt sled and plunger back in to place. Reattach the two rails and the screws to hold them in. Slide your new spring in.

Photobucket

Put it all back together and you’re done! Grab a clip and a handful of darts and go test your new and improved blaster.

Photobucket

With stock streamline darts from the stock blaster, I was getting an average of 7.5m

With the same darts from the modifed blaster, I was getting an average of 17m

Note: unless otherwise stated, all range tests on this blog will be done as an average of 18 darts, fired level from the shoulder.

You should now have yourself a significantly improved blaster that will be the envy of all your friends! Ok, probably not, but it’s still a decent improvement. Few blasters can match the Raider for its ease of use, dart capacity and rate of fire; and now it even has a somewhat decent range to go with it. Enjoy!