Mod Shop – Nerf Stampede – Black Tactical upgrade kit + AR Removal + Bump Firing Cure

Over a year ago I wrote a post about this very mod. However having recently directed a friend through to my original write-up, I found it was a little lacking. Now I’m not often the first to admit that something I’ve done is crap, even if it is, but given how often I’m spruiking the stampede and the Black Tactical kit, I thought it best to have a do-over.

Today we’ll be performing an Air Restrictor (AR) removal, installing the Black Tactical (BT) kit, and upgrading the voltage.

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Tools/consumables needed

Phillips head screwdrivers
Drill, complete with extra long drill bit
A long, round hand file
Black Tactical Stampede kit (Main spring, O-ring, padding)
4 x 14500 AA Trustfire batteries
4 x AA holder
Soldering iron/solder
Knife
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As always, we’ll kick off with the blaster in question.

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Start by removing the battery tray.

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Looking inside we’ll then find a cautionary sticker.

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Run a knife down the seam between the two sides of the blaster shell and cut the sticker.

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Then remove all of the screws holding the shell together. There are three different sized screws in the Stampede shell; a long screw, a short and fat screw, and a short but thin screw. The short and thin screws come from the two top hole here.

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And the two bottom holes here.

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The short and fat screws are found in the remaining orange holes here.

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The three holes on the top tactical rail and this one just behind the jam door.

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And finally on this mounting point at the back of the blaster.

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The remaining screws are all the longer type. Here you can see the differences between the three.

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Right, now that they’re all out, we can open the blaster and have a good look around. As always, stop for a moment or two here and try to get an understanding of how the blaster works. Figuring this out here will make reassembly significantly easier and will help with problem solving for years to come.

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Happy? Good, lets move on.

For the rest of the walk-through we’ll be looking at the important half of the shell upside down. This is because the power switch is found on the other half of the shell and leaning over it to work on the interesting parts is a pain. This is honestly how I normally work on Stampedes so I figured why not write about it in the same way.
TLDR: We’ll be upside down for the rest of the walk-through.

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Remove the jam door.

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Like so.

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Then we’ll want to remove this screw, which is currently hiding under some kind of glue? I’m not sure why but many newer Stampedes have had glue on top of this screw while older ones never did. Either way, if it’s there, scrape it off.

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Like so.

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Now that we can access the screw we can remove it and the four others holding this cover on.

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The one that had the glue on it is shorter than the other four. Remember this when it comes time to reassemble.

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Take the cover off.

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Then the two screws securing the return spring mount.

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Allowing us to remove said return spring mount.

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Which should then let us lift the entire breech/plunger assembly out of the blaster.

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Which is then the part we’ll be working on next.

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Start by removing the two screws holding the end-cap on.

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Which should let us at the main spring and plunger.

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Remove both.

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Pry off the old o-ring with a screwdriver and slip the new, larger o-ring in it’s place.

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Then stick on the supplied plunger padding. It’s self adhesive, just peel off the backing and make sure you centre it on the plunger head.

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Slip the new main spring over the plunger rod. You can see here how much stronger it is than the original spring.

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Now lets got to work on that AR. You can see it quite clearly here looking down the back of the plunger and it should be immediately obvious as to how it restricts air flow and robs us of power.

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So attack it with a drill!

Then clean it up with your hand file (of which I apparently forgot to take a photo of). We don’t want any of those little pieces still sticking out like you can see here as they will affect the air flow.

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Once that’s done we can put the plunger assembly back together.

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Make sure that the end cap faces down and the cutout on the plunger faces up. The blaster won’t fire otherwise.

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Next up is my home-made remedy for bump firing. Bump firing is where you quickly pull the trigger but the blaster fires multiple darts . This is inefficient at best and downright annoying. When I pull the trigger only once, it’s because I only want one dart to fire. Bump firing is a fairly common occurrence when upping the voltage on a Stampede but it’s a pretty easy fix.

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Start by removing a spring from one of the tactical rail attachment points. Any tactical rail will do.

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Then make your way over to this sort-of triangular piece and remove the two screws holding it in place.

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Underneath we should find a rocker arm and a micro-switch. This is essentially the trigger mechanism for the blaster.

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Lift the micro-swtich out so we can work on it. It won’t come very far but even the little extra room we get here will make things easier.

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I had a spare one lying around from a previous build so I’ll demonstrate on it instead.

Pry the small catch plate off to free the spring.

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Put the stronger spring we stole from the tactical rail on the switch and replace the catch plate.The indentation at the middle of the black plastic piece is where the catch plate was originally sitting *and* it’s where it will need to go back when we reassembly. This is quite a fiddly job to do but it is possible. Don’t give up here and move the catch plate further out, it won’t solve the original problem.

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Once you’ve got the stronger spring in place we can put the switch back.

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If you’re really keen you can also put the original spring from the micro-switch pat on the tactical rail we stole the other spring from.

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Then put the cover piece back on.

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Now replace the plunger assembly.

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Then the return spring holder.

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Then the plunger assembly cover.

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Then the jam door.

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Then the shell.

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And there we have it kids; one Nerf Stampede complete with BT kit.

OK, not quite. To run the BT kit you need to upgrade the batteries. You need a minimum of 12v to be able to actually compress the BT main spring so I like to run mine at 16v fully charged. That way it’s still got a reasonable life span where the batteries can die back to 12v before the blaster needs recharging.

This can be achieved by a variety of means but I’m quite partial to the 4×14500 AA Trustfires option. AA-D convertor shells are quite cheap, or even go and grab a 4xAA holder and solder it in place to your battery tray. In this case I also insulated the joins with hot glue as well.

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