I’m a little late to party on this one but thought it was still worth doing. I actually picked up a pair of Rayvens the day they became available in Australia, a good couple of weeks before they were supposed to be released, but never got around to doing anything with them. With the break over Christmas just gone, I decided to change that. With that in mind, today we’ll be running through a safety removal on the Nerf Rayven. Before others ask I’m not sure if the internals of the Elite Rayven are identical, but the same principles should apply.
Tools and Materials Required
Phillips head screwdriver
Soldering iron and solder
Electrical tape/heat shrink
Start by removing all the screws in the shell.
These two are the only screws that are different to the rest. They’re shorter.
Once we’re inside the shell take a moment or two to get an understanding of the blaster and it’s workings. The Rayven is incredibly simple; the trigger is physically connected to the dart pusher, which pushed darts into the flywheels.
Cool, happy? Lets move on. Start by removing the clip well and the jam door.
Remove the microswitch at the top. This checks to make sure the jam door is closed; something we’re going to bypass.
Remove this screw.
Then the clip checking top piece.
Then the locking bottom piece.
Then move to the other side of the clip well and remove this microswitch.
This one checks that there’s a clip in the blaster.
Unclip the wires at the bottom.
This is the switch from the clip well.
Cut the two red wires.
Move down a little.
Cut the pink wire about here. You need enough length on the piece on the left to join it to the red wire later.
We should now be able to completely remove the jam door microswitch and all of its associated wiring now.
Strip back some of the plastic coating on both the red and pink wires.
Bend each into a hook and cross them.
Twist them back around themselves.
Solder and tape.
Hide it out of the way.
And we’re essentially done. We should now have one green wire running from the battery tray, direct to the motors; and one yellow wire running from the battery tray, to the trigger switch, changing colour to pink, connecting to the red wire we soldered above, to the motors.
Replace the clip well cover.
We don’t have to replace the jam door but you can if you want.
Put the shell back together and replace all the screws.
We now have a Rayven that will spin up and we can pull the trigger regardless of whether or not there’s a clip in the blaster. Not a dramatic change but it does make the blaster do what you tell it to do.