The Nerf Spectre, first released in 2010, was received by the blaster community as the ‘fixed’ Maverick. I for one was never a fan of the Maverick, mostly due to the jams, so the Spectre was a pleasant surprise. It still had basically the same rotational mechanism, except this time it rotated on priming, not on the trigger pull. This then rules out a lot of the potential for jams and greatly improved the blaster. Sure it carries one less dart and still gets pretty poor ranges compared to some of the larger blasters, but that’s not really what the Spectre was designed to do. If we instead look at it as an interesting side-arm that looks pretty cool, you can’t complain too loudly.
The modifications we will be performing today are an air restrictor (AR) removal, and adding in a pre-tensioner to the main spring.
Phillips head screw driver
Claw hammer/small crow bar
5mm length of 20mm conduit
Dremel with cutting wheel/hacksaw
Small hand file
All right, lets get too it. Start off with the blaster in question.
Remove the two screws holding the priming grip on. These are significantly longer than all the other screws in the blaster, so make sure to take note of that.
Then take the priming grip off.
There are two screws holding the end cap on; remove them. Again, they are different to the rest of the screws in the blaster.
Then move on to removing the rest of the screws holding the shell together. Most are the same size, only two are significantly smaller.
The small ones come from here.
And here. Make sure you remember this when we put it back together.
Once all the screws are out we’ll be able to open the shell.
As always, take a moment or two to familiarise yourself with the internals of the blaster and try to get an understanding of how they work. This will make you life much easier when it comes time to put everything back together.
Ok, happy? Good.
Continue the disassembly process by removing the rotating barrels.
In order for it to lift out, you have to push the rotation priming mechanism back, as you lift the barrels. Unfortunately it was kinda difficult to take a picture showing you this with the barrels in, but I’m sure you’ll get the idea.
Simply push it back like so.
Now that it’s free, we can get to work getting it apart.
Grab a claw hammer or a small crow bar and lever the front of the drop plate away from the barrels. This will take some force so don’t be shy, just make sure you get your pry bar as far as you can towards the centre of the plate.
As it comes loose, these two small pieces will pop off the other end. Don’t lose them.
Once the bar is out, these are all the components you should end up with, in the order they’ll need to go back together in.
Looking down the back of the barrels, we should find five screws in these outer holes. Remove them.
And the whole thing should come apart.
Separate the bottom piece.
Then remove all five dart pegs.
And springs. These parts formed the AR.
Looking down the back of the barrels, you should now see no obstructions.
Reattach the front part of the barrels and replace the five screws.
Then replace the front rotational plate, complete with the small spring and stopper we spoke about earlier, in this order.
Which should get us something like this.
Move back to the shell.
Replace the barrels back in blaster. We will need to pull back the rotation priming mechanism back, just as we did when we removed the barrels. Turn the barrels so that the priming mechanism re-seats.
That’s the AR removal done. If that’s all you came here to do, feel free to skip ahead to the reassembly stage. If you want to go a little further with this mod, read on.
Start by moving to the back of the blaster.
Remove the main spring by sliding it backwards out of the blaster.
Then lift the whole plunger assembly and remove it from the blaster.
The seal on this is pretty good from factory, so I didn’t bother trying to improve it. It’s not perfect, but with a plunger this small a perfect seal would actually harm performance.
Cut yourself a 5mm thick piece of 20mm conduit. We’ll be using this as a spacer to pre-tension the main spring. Now when I say 5mm here, I mean 5mm. 5.5mm won’t work as the blaster won’t be able to catch.
File a small indentation in the top of the conduit, and a flat spot on the bottom.
The spacer will now slide nicely over the small nub on the top of the plunger tube and the flat bottom won’t foul on the catch.
Replace the plunger back in the blaster, with the front lip in front of this piece of the shell.
Slide the spring back into place.
Then replace the other half of the shell and screw it back together. Remember where those two shorted screws went?
At this point take notice of where this little spring end is siting.
When to replace the priming handle, make sure that this bar goes through that spring end.
Replace the other half of the priming handle and secure it with the two really long screws.
Replace the end cap and we’re done! One modded Nerf Spectre.
Is it any better?
To test this I fired 15 whistler darts with the blaster completely level, at shoulder height.
Stock – Darts spread from 8-12m, most around the 9-10m mark, only one hit 12m.
Modded – Darts spread from 11-13m, most around the 12m mark.
Therefore, not an amazing difference, but an improvement none the less.