Mod Shop – Nerf Rampage – AR Removal

Hooray! Guess who got their hands on the latest and greatest from Nerf? Yep that’s right kids, I managed to grab a Rampage and a Retaliator. We’ll only be looking at the Rampage today, but rest assured that it’s brother won’t be too far behind.

Not yet officially released, and by that I mean you can buy it from an assortment of stores in the US but Nerf is still saying that they’ll be here in September, the Rampage is the Elite variant of the old N-Strike Raider. The shell looks like it’s just another repaint, but it’s the internals and the new darts that we’re all really interested in. This is because Nerf has apparently listened to it’s fan base and managed to cram a direct plunger system into the old Raider shell, all while retaining that brilliant clip loading, slam-firing action we all love. But enough on the blaster, lets get to it!

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Tools/Materials required…

Phillips head screwdriver
Drill and assortment of drill bits
Long round hand file

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See how new it is, it’s still in box!

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Opened box.

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The blaster itself.

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Just like the Raider before it, you have to attach the mag well.

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Like so.

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Ok, time to kick off proper.

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Start by removing the end cap. It’s held on by two screws.

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Then the priming handle.

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It’s held on by five screws. It’s probably worth noting at this point that all the screws in this blaster are the same, so no need to remember which one goes where.

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With that in mind, we can remove the rest of the screws from the shell.

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These internals are not like those you’ve seen before. Really do take the time to have a good look around at this stage and figure out how it all works.

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Interestingly if you look here, you’ll notice that the breech isn’t all the way closed. This is because the dart door is sprung much harder than in other blasters and actively forces the breech back a little.

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However, when you prime the blaster or simply pull the priming handle all the way forward, it will fully close.

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Ok, lets continue with the dis-assembly.

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Remove the trigger and the dart holder.

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Then the front barrel.

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Like so.

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Take the spring out.

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Then the whole breech and plunger assembly should come out in one piece.

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Like so.

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Pop the catch off the back.

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Then pull the breech out the front of the plunger.

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The only Air Restrictor (AR) is in this front part of the breech.

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These four little nubs hold the spring in place, which in turn forces the AR forward. When air rushes forward it pushes the AR back against the spring, allowing air to pass through to the dart.

We instead want a clear path.

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Grab something small (nail, screwdriver, what ever fits) and push the bolt sled pin all the way though.

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Allowing you to separate the breech from the bolt sled.

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Start from the back of the breech with a small drill bit to get yourself a pilot hole, then move in with a larger bit to destroy the AR. I used a 3mm and then a 9mm bit, but whatever works for you should be fine. Once you’re done, it should look like this.

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The spring and dart peg should fall out intact.

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Then move in with you hand file and clean up the remaining dags.

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Same view from the front.

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The plunger itself already has a perfect seal form factory, so no need to mess around there. We’ll instead cut straight to reassembly.

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Insert the breech back in the plunger tube.

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Place the whole assembly back in the blaster.

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Replace the catch. It has a cutout on one side; that side should be facing forward.

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Slide the spring back in place.

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Move up to the front of the blaster.

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Replace the barrel, then the front piece. It needs to go with the two pegs facing down.

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Like so.

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Put the trigger and dart holder back in place.

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Almost done!

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Put the other half of the shell back on and screw it in place.

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Replace the priming grip.

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Finally, replace the end cap and we’re done. One AR’d Rampage.

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Range testing for this one was done between rounds at an inside game, so zero external influences. Unfortunately, I forgot to take any elite darts with me to that game so we’re stuck with streamline ranges.

 

Stock – 11m average with an 8-12m spread
AR’d – 14m average with a 12-16m spread

Mod Shop – Nerf Spectre – AR Removal and Spring Pre-tension

The Nerf Spectre, first released in 2010, was received by the blaster community as the ‘fixed’ Maverick. I for one was never a fan of the Maverick, mostly due to the jams, so the Spectre was a pleasant surprise. It still had basically the same rotational mechanism, except this time it rotated on priming, not on the trigger pull. This then rules out a lot of the potential for jams and greatly improved the blaster. Sure it carries one less dart and still gets pretty poor ranges compared to some of the larger blasters, but that’s not really what the Spectre was designed to do. If we instead look at it as an interesting side-arm that looks pretty cool, you can’t complain too loudly.

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The modifications we will be performing today are an air restrictor (AR) removal, and adding in a pre-tensioner to the main spring.

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Tools/Materials needed….

Phillips head screw driver
Claw hammer/small crow bar
5mm length of 20mm conduit
Dremel with cutting wheel/hacksaw
Small hand file
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All right, lets get too it. Start off with the blaster in question.

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Remove the two screws holding the priming grip on. These are significantly longer than all the other screws in the blaster, so make sure to take note of that.

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Then take the priming grip off.

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There are two screws holding the end cap on; remove them. Again, they are different to the rest of the screws in the blaster.

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Then move on to removing the rest of the screws holding the shell together. Most are the same size, only two are significantly smaller.

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The small ones come from here.

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And here. Make sure you remember this when we put it back together.

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Once all the screws are out we’ll be able to open the shell.

As always, take a moment or two to familiarise yourself with the internals of the blaster and try to get an understanding of how they work. This will make you life much easier when it comes time to put everything back together.

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Ok, happy? Good.

Continue the disassembly process by removing the rotating barrels.

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In order for it to lift out, you have to push the rotation priming mechanism back, as you lift the barrels. Unfortunately it was kinda difficult to take a picture showing you this with the barrels in, but I’m sure you’ll get the idea.

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Simply push it back like so.

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Now that it’s free, we can get to work getting it apart.

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Grab a claw hammer or a small crow bar and lever the front of the drop plate away from the barrels. This will take some force so don’t be shy, just make sure you get your pry bar as far as you can towards the centre of the plate.

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As it comes loose, these two small pieces will pop off the other end. Don’t lose them.

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Once the bar is out, these are all the components you should end up with, in the order they’ll need to go back together in.

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Looking down the back of the barrels, we should find five screws in these outer holes. Remove them.

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And the whole thing should come apart.

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Separate the bottom piece.

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Then remove all five dart pegs.

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And springs. These parts formed the AR.

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Looking down the back of the barrels, you should now see no obstructions.

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Reattach the front part of the barrels and replace the five screws.

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Then replace the front rotational plate, complete with the small spring and stopper we spoke about earlier, in this order.

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Which should get us something like this.

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Move back to the shell.

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Replace the barrels back in blaster. We will need to pull back the rotation priming mechanism back, just as we did when we removed the barrels. Turn the barrels so that the priming mechanism re-seats.

That’s the AR removal done. If that’s all you came here to do, feel free to skip ahead to the reassembly stage. If you want to go a little further with this mod, read on.

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Start by moving to the back of the blaster.

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Remove the main spring by sliding it backwards out of the blaster.

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Then lift the whole plunger assembly and remove it from the blaster.

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The seal on this is pretty good from factory, so I didn’t bother trying to improve it. It’s not perfect, but with a plunger this small a perfect seal would actually harm performance.

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Cut yourself a 5mm thick piece of 20mm conduit. We’ll be using this as a spacer to pre-tension the main spring. Now when I say 5mm here, I mean 5mm. 5.5mm won’t work as the blaster won’t be able to catch.

File a small indentation in the top of the conduit, and a flat spot on the bottom.

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The spacer will now slide nicely over the small nub on the top of the plunger tube and the flat bottom won’t foul on the catch.

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Like so.

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Replace the plunger back in the blaster, with the front lip in front of this piece of the shell.

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Like so.

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Slide the spring back into place.

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Then replace the other half of the shell and screw it back together. Remember where those two shorted screws went?

At this point take notice of where this little spring end is siting.

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When to replace the priming handle, make sure that this bar goes through that spring end.

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Like so.

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Replace the other half of the priming handle and secure it with the two really long screws.

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Almost there!

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Replace the end cap and we’re done! One modded Nerf Spectre.

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Is it any better?

To test this I fired 15 whistler darts with the blaster completely level, at shoulder height.

Stock – Darts spread from 8-12m, most around the 9-10m mark, only one hit 12m.
Modded – Darts spread from 11-13m, most around the 12m mark.

Therefore, not an amazing difference, but an improvement none the less.

Rule Set – Humans vs Zombies (full rules)

Another reader’s request this week. After posting my first round of game photos I was asked how our games worked. Simple answer is that they vary; we’ll often play many different game types throughout a day, but they’ll all work as a variation to the core rule set. This was based on the original HvZ rule set by HvZ Source, modified for HvZ@ANU, then again for the Canberra and Southern NSW Dart Tag Association.

Canberra and Southern NSW Dart Tag Humans vs Zombies Rules

As at September, 2011

Overview

Humans vs. Zombies is a game of tag. Most players start the game as human except for the initial horde of Master Zombies. The zombies can then tag other humans. Humans can defend themselves by using approved weapons (see the weapons section) to stun zombies. The game is typically played over an hour or two; playing multiple games in a single day.

Special missions will be run to add flavour to the game and lead to interesting situations.

Objectives

The humans’ aim is to survive the zombie outbreak. Individual games have their own storylines and will give humans an opportunity to win. However, the humans must survive for long enough to take advantage of that opportunity. The zombies’ aim to wipe out the humans. They will typically win if all humans are turned into zombies.

Moderators/Referees

The venerable moderators and referees are running the game. They are in charge of administering justice and upholding the rules of the game. Any decision made by a moderator or a referee can only be overturned by a senior admin. Moderators will endeavour to make the best judgement calls they can, in accordance with what they think is a fair and reasonable interpretation of the rules. If a player is unhappy with a moderator decision, it is up to them to locate and consult the other moderators or admins. In the meantime, the original decision holds. Most situations are accounted for in the rules below, but if anything happens which doesn’t seem to have a ruling associated with it, mods should be consulted, and in the meantime you should simply attempt to have fun and remain safe.

A moderator can overrule any of the following rules to make specific exceptions on a case by case basis. These do not necessarily set a precedent, but will be cause for discussion regardless. Moderators can introduce new rules or change existing rules for all players for the game in progress. This is to be avoided and should only be used if major safety issues or major game balance issues arise.

The Rules

These rules are taken very seriously. The moderators reserve the right to ban any player who breaks any rule for the duration of the game/remainder of the day/indefinite future.

Common Sense!

·         Be safe:

·          Don’t do anything dangerous, like climbing trees, jumping off rooftops, running onto roads without looking, using grappling hooks, etc;

·          Behaviour which endangers any player or bystander will not be tolerated.

·         Respect others;

·         Be nice;

·         Have fun!

Signup Rules

The Canberra and Southern NSW Dart Tag group is a social group designed to facilitate games involving foam dart blasters and other associated interests. The group is not an official organisation, does not have a membership base, does not charge a membership fee, does not charge an entry fee (except in rare occurrences where a venue has been hired), and is in no way responsible for any attendees to an event or any actions of any attendee.

Players must be over the age of 16 on the day of the game in question (unless otherwise advised).

Tagging Rules

Humans vs Zombies is primarily a game of tag. The zombies must tag the humans, and when a human is tagged they will become a zombie. The humans can defend themselves by “stunning” a zombie with various approved weapons, which will be explained in more detail in the weapons section.

A tag must be a touch with the zombie’s hand to any part of the human’s body. Anything attached to or worn by the human is considered part of the human’s body. This includes any weapons or any clothing attached to said human. Harassment will be taken very seriously. Zombies should therefore be careful where they put their hands when tagging a human. Also, a tag must not be too hard.

Similarly a human must only stun a zombie using an approved weapon. The zombie’s body extends to all things attached to it. If a zombie has been stunned at the same time as tagging a human, the tag does not count and the zombie is stunned. Avoid headshots. They still count, but make an effort to target other parts of their bodies instead.

Therefore, a tag will be invalid if:

• The tagging zombie had been stunned before the tag;

• The tagging zombie was simultaneously stunned;

• The tag was too forceful;

• The tag was inappropriate for any reason.

 

If a tag dispute arises it must be resolved in the following manner:

• Both players must be courteous;

• Both players must attempt to resolve the dispute between themselves;

• If no resolution is possible then a moderator must be consulted;

• The decision by the moderator may take factors beyond those listed explicitly listed in the rules into account when making their decision and may be an exception to a rule;

• A decision by a moderator is final and must be fairly accepted by both players, however their decision is only in reference to that particular tag.

When a human is tagged they must; move their bandanna to their neck, return their weapons to a safe location, make their way to a respawn point, move their bandanna to their head and begin playing as a zombie.

When a zombie is stunned by a human, they are to be considered as a ‘stunned zombies’ for game purposes and must place their bandanna around their neck. A stunned zombie cannot tag humans, but they can move around freely. They are not allowed to act as shields for active zombies, and they must get out of the way of any conflicts. Typically the zombie will have to make their way to a designated respawn point (other methods of respawn may be used in specific games). Upon doing so, they can place their bandanna back around their head and return to playing as an active zombie.

 

Clothing / Bandannas

A player’s bandanna marks their status in the game:

• Around the head: Active zombie

• Around the arm: Active human

• Around the neck: Stunned zombie OR Turning human (either way they’ll be an active zombie soon enough)

The bandannas used in game will typically be bright orange. Therefore, it is reasonable to ask players to not wear a orange shirt of the same shade if they are human, as the bandanna would be too hard to see. Also, for the sake of creating less confusion, the only bandanna to be worn during the game by any of the players is to be the game bandanna. This means, you are not allowed to wear other bandannas in addition to the game bandanna, during the game.

More generally speaking, a player’s bandanna cannot be concealed or obstructed from view in any way. Your bandanna must be visible. Players must wear their bandanna at all times.

Anyone not wearing a bandanna is a non-player. Non-players are not to be disturbed, shot at with blasters or bothered in any way. If a player is found interacting with a non-player in an unsatisfactory way, there will be repercussions.

In general, Players may wear whatever clothing they wish provided it does not obscure the bandanna or could cause concern amongst a reasonable member of the public.

Military/paramilitary clothing is not specifically banned, but common sense must prevail. You must not look threatening. All forms of face coverings are banned.

 

Weapons / Equipment

Humans are allowed to use weapons to stun zombies. Zombies will be stunned for hit by one of these weapons.

Allowed Weapons

Foam dart blasters (eg; Nerf blasters)

Socks and other soft throw-able items

Soft foam melee weapons (in specific games only)

General Weapon Rules

1.  Weapons must be easily identifiable as toys.

2.   Zombies are not allowed weapons to extend the reach of their tag, or deflect approved projectiles, by using a weapon. Anything attached to a zombie counts as part of that zombie for the purpose of stunning them.

3.  Ricochets count as a stun, but stationary darts don’t count. That is, if a zombie picks up a dart to give it back to a human, it doesn’t count as them getting stunned. However, if a dart bounces off a tree and hits a zombie, then they are stunned.

Blaster Modifications

All modified blasters must be shown to a moderator before being used in the game.

“Modification” entails changing absolutely anything on the blaster. This ranges from any form of painting or external modification and also includes any internal modification.

Paint:

Paint MUST be bright colours.

Blasters may not be painted in any sort of military camouflage pattern.

If you are painting one of the more realistic looking blasters (eg Nerf LongStrike, Nerf Stampede,  BuzBee DoubleShot) be extra careful.

Internals:

Most modifications are allowed, however it is always at the discretion of a moderator and you should always exercise due caution. Incredibly powerful blasters (eg; singled titan) are sometimes allowed depending on the game in question, but minimum engagement distances will be enforced. Basically, keep safe and check with a moderator.

Ammunition:

You may not modify darts in any way. Only stock, commercially available darts are to be used.

Be conscientious about your darts and the darts of others. Treat other people’s property with respect.

Zombies may return ammunition to a human if they desire. Humans can ask a zombie to return their ammunition, but should be courteous when doing so. Humans should not unnecessarily stun a  zombie in this instance, nor should a zombie attempt to tag a human when returning ammunition. Zombies cannot withhold ammunition. Zombies are free to pick it up only if they’re about to return it.

Make sure you label your darts with a distinctive symbol, so you can tell them apart from other darts. Throughout the course of the day feel free to use any ammunition available and expect that others will do the same with yours. All darts will be sorted at the end of that day, at which point take only what is yours. You will lose darts throughout the course of the day; do not expect a 100% return ratio.

Master/Original/Starting Zombies

The Master/Original/Starting  Zombies (MZ/OZ/SZs) are Zombies from the start of the game. It is their role to get the Zombie population going during the first stages of the game.

1.  They wear their bandannas on their arms like humans until they are revealed.

2.  They may use weapons as a human would.  This means they may stun zombies.

3.  The original zombie may choose when contact becomes a tag.

4.  They CANNOT  be stunned

As soon as an MZ makes their first burst of tags they are revealed and resume play as a stunned normal zombie. From this point forth they are a normal zombie.

A “burst of tags” is defined as a consecutive tags all made 5 seconds of each other. The MZ can be stunned at any time after the first tag, terminating the burst.

At the beginning of the game, nobody will know who the MZs are except the MZs themselves. However, they won’t know the identities of the other MZs.

If a MZ tags another MZ, both will turn to normal zombies. If a normal zombie tags a MZ, the MZ will be turned as normal.

Selection of MZ’s

MZ’s will be randomly selected using a card system. All players will be randomly given a card before the start of the game; which will be clearly labeled with one of the following;

1.  Human/Survivor

2.  Zombie/Infected

3.  Wild (only used in some games)

Players who receive a Human/Survivor card will begin the game as a Human.

Players who receive a Zombie/Infected card will begin the game as some form of MZ, depending on exactly which card was chosen.

MZ’s with an unnumbered Zombie/Infected card are free to make their first tag at any point throughout the game.

MZ’s with a numbered Zombie/Infected card must reveal and make their first tag at a designated time, announced by a whistle blast. Which numbers correspond to which whistle blasts will be explained before the start of the game.

Wild cards are only used during specific games and will have an outcome depending on the specifics involved.

 

Miscellaneous

The following are rules which don’t necessarily fit anywhere else. Regardless of this, they are important:

Play your side

This rule is one of the most important in the game, although it doesn’t fit into any of the above categories. This rule means just what it says. If you are a human, you must act like a human. You shouldn’t sacrifice yourself simply to become a zombie because you would prefer that. By the same token, as soon as you are tagged and the tag is confirmed, you must play as a zombie. As a zombie, or even a turning human, you should not tell nearby humans who tagged you or where they are, you should be helping the zombies.

Obey the law

Stealing: Darts and other belongings should be returned to the human that they belong to, as they are the property of that human. Taking them is stealing. Humans should mark their weapons and darts, and post details of their marks on the forum topic concerning marks.

Littering: Both humans and zombies should endeavour to ensure that darts do not remain on the ground, as this constitutes littering, which is unacceptable.

Assault: Players of the game have only consented to being tagged. Any act going beyond this constitutes an assault for which each player is individually responsible.

Respect the group and the environment in which we are playing:  Don’t do anything that would damage property or disrupt other activities.

Modshop – Nerf Stampede – Safety Removal

I have posted about a safety removal before (say the post about my shortened Stampede) but I never went into any kind of detail as to how you’d go about doing it. So, without further ado, Nerf Stampede safety removal!

Ok, some ado still left. What does a safety removal do exactly? Well, it means you’ll be able to fire the blaster without the clip in place or the jam door closed. Why would we want to do that? Honestly, most people don’t. The safeties are useful in that you can’t accidentally dry fire the blaster, and you can’t get your finger stuck in the breech by firing with the door open and your fingers where they shouldn’t be. The problem lies in that if you don’t have the clip completely 100% aligned, the blaster won’t fire. Same deal if the jam door is even slightly askew. Having the blaster not fire when you’re expecting it to is the kind of thing that can cause you serious problems mid-game. I understand the extra risks involved here but I’m a big boy; I know not to stick my fingers and the breech and pull the trigger and I know not to dry fire. I’m willing to accept those added concerns to loose the potential of one of the safeties going rouge and having the blaster not working in the split second where I really need it to. Assuming you feel the same way, please, read on.

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Tools/Materials required…

Phillips head screwdriver
Pliers
Soldering iron + solder

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As always, we’ll kick off with the blaster in question.

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Remove the battery tray, then what seems like an endless supply of screws holding the shell together.

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Take a good look at the internals, understand how they work.

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You can see here one of the micro-switches that acts as a safety here. This one in particular is one of the three that checks to see if there’s a clip in the blaster.

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There’s another one on the opposite side of the clip well.

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And the third hides under the first one we looked at.

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You can’t really see this one, but there’s another micro-switch under here that checks to see if the jam door is closed.

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I hadn’t mentioned this above but I also decided to remove the power switch on this blaster too. Again, I didn’t want to accidentally knock it mid-game and turn the blaster off.

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Simply cut the wires to the switch.

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Ok, time to starts on the micro-switches!

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First up, remove the two screws holding this bar immediately above the micro-switch here.

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Allowing us to then remove said bar.

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The remove the two screws holding the switch itself in.

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Cut the wires to it so you can move it to one side, then remove the three screws holding the now exposed clip release catch. Then remove said catch. The clip release button will fall off at this stage, don’t lose it.

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Next, remove the two screws holding the next micro-switch in.

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Then remove the switch itself.

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Replace the clip release button and catch.

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Now move to the left side of the clip well and remove the front part of the breech.

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Like so.

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We can now see the jam door micro-switch hiding under here.

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Remove the two screws holding this cover plate in.

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And the cover plate itself. We now have access to the wires for the safeties.

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Two screws, micro-switch, yada yada yada.

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Push it to one side, then remove the screw holding the dart tooth in.

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The remove the dart tooth and the two screws visible here.

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With the screws removed you can pry this piece up just enough to remove the jam door switch. At this stage we’ll also need to pull both switches and their associated wiring over to the other side of the clip well.

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Replace the dart tooth.

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Then the cover plate.

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Then the front part of the breech.

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We should now have a nice series of four micro-switches no longer in the blaster. Trace the wire back to the trigger switch.

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It should be the one shown here on the left.

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Cut it with enough length to reach the on/off switch wiring we cut earlier.

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Strip some of the shielding back.

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Twist together.

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Then solder. (also tape but no pictures of said tape /sadface)

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Put the shell back together and we’re done! You now have one unsafe blaster… teehee…

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Mod Shop – Nerf Jolt – Conduit Re-Barrel

I’m going to start off where I did a few weeks ago on this one, yay Jolt! It’s cheap, it’s simple, and it’s fun. No, it won’t ever be as effective as a Stampede or Longshot, but that’s not the point. Yay Jolt!

This week we’re going to tackle a little more advanced job on our pocked sized friend, we’re going to replace the barrel with something a little tighter. Specifically I’ve used 16mm conduit, but you could easily substitute your preferred barrel material.

 

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Tools/Materials required…

Phillips head screwdriver
Dremel with cutting and grinding attachments
Chosen barrel material
Needle nose pliers
Hot glue + gun

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To begin with, one Jolt.

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Remove the four screws on the bottom to remove the spring and plunger.

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Oooo, an AR…

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Here’s the back of said AR as seen from the plunger tube.

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What the AR looks like when it’s pushed back, say like a dart would.

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Grab your pliers and twist the dart peg off.

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Then cut through the barrel at the point where it increases in diameter.

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Damn it, still got an AR.

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Ok, so I lied above. Cut 1-2mm past where the diameter increases and the AR should just fall out,

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Leaving you this dead space at the back of the barrel.

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Looking from the plunger tube, you should now have a clear light of sight through to where the barrel will sit.

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Grab a length of 16mm conduit and push it as far back as it goes. The inner diameter of the back of the stock barrel is almost exactly the same as the outer diameter of the conduit, so no further cutting/grinding should be needed at this stage.

You can see here that I started off with a significantly longer barrel. I knew this would be too long before I started, but ti’s far easier to removed excess length than it is to add more. After it was completed, I discovered that the ideal length for 16mm conduit on a Jolt was around the 80mm mark.

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Mark the outline of the conduit from the plunger hold with a pen, then remove the barrel from the blaster.

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Grind away.

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Reinsert the barrel as far as it can go. With the cut out, you should now be able to get it another ~7mm further. Remark from the plunger tube and remove the barrel again.Photobucket

Grind away.

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Then put it back in the blaster. Looking from the plunger tube you should see a clear path for the air to flow. This is ok, but it could be a little better. Clean up the conduit with your grinding wheel to get it as smooth as possible.

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Once you’re happy with it, apply a thin bead of hot glue.

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And a small bob at the front of the trigger guard.

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Submerge the join in water, hold the plunger in, then blow down the barrel. If there’s an air leak, plug it. If not, we’re good!

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Tada!

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Like I said above, it took some trial and error to find the ideal barrel length. Mine worked out being a little longer than a streamline.

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And there we have it. One barreled Nerf Jolt. All in all, a very straight forward mod that provides marginally better results than just the AR removal.